in the heart of Shinjuku, a street that gives Tokyo taxi drivers nightmares, a massive building that looks like a warship, forgotten rivers ... Far from the crowds and the usual cliches, Tokyo swings between modernity and tradition, preservation of its heritage, sophisticated aestheticism and eccentricity, offering countless off beat experiences. The Japanese capital is home to any number of well-hidden treasures that are revealed only to residents and travellers who find their way off the beaten track. An indispensable guide for those who thought they knew Tokyo well or would like to discover the other face of the city. The definitive insider's guide to Tokyo.